It was no surprise to see Skof bag a Michelin star at the glitzy Glasgow bash a couple of weeks ago. More surprising, perhaps, that they didn’t nick a brace.
With all the polish and precision of your L’Enclumes, your Myses and your Forest Sides, but with the relaxed nature and approachability of your everyday neighbourhood restaurant, Tom Barnes and his team have created an absolute banker over there in Manchester.
Not even the spoddiest of restaurant nerds wants to read a plate-by-plate breakdown of 12 courses, (there are both a shorter and longer version available) so have a few highlights instead.
All the snacks. Often the best bits about these “high end” (read: pricey) meals are the down-in-one bites that arrive as a precursor for what’s to follow. At Skof, things start on a high and stay on a high.
The duck. Perfectly pink, some gentle oomph from the capers and black garlic, and a small but mighty mound of split peas which I’m told are finished with “a lot of butter”. Pretty sure I had something simialr at Tom’s old manor, L’Enclume.
The tiramisu. Delivered by Tom him’sen; a moving narrative and a fine fine dessert.
Eating The North 